Hay and haylage

GOOD quality forage is the most essential part of every horse or pony’s diet. As the great British climate becomes more changeable, making good quality forage has never been more challenging and this season has been no exception.

A very dry spring followed by variable weather throughout the country over summer, means most farmers are reporting reduced yields. Rain, which came to some areas later in the season, has been a mixed blessing, helping to boost second cuts for many producers, but also making harvesting crops difficult.

Traditionally, hay has been the supplementary forage fed to horses, but with more and more farmers producing haylage it has become more readily available. However, they are two very different products, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

Whichever you chose it is important it is good quality. Paying a little more for a good product will be more cost effective than buying inferior feed, which can actually do your horse more harm than good, or may end up being wasted.

The nutrient value of hay and haylage depends on the grass species used, the time of year it is cut and the environment conditions at the time, but generally the nutrient value of haylage is higher.

Forage is a horse’s natural feed and should be the basis of its diet, with extra feed added only if forage cannot supply sufficient nutrients. A hard working horse is likely to require some concentrate feed in addition to forage, but for horses and ponies with low nutrient requirement, who are good doers and in light or no work, forage should supply all the energy and protein they need.

However, even the best quality forage may not supply all the vitamins and minerals a horse needs and horses on a forage-only diet should be fed a balanced source of vitamins and minerals.

Forage can vary significantly in nutrient value and the only sure way to know exactly what you are feeding is to have your forage analysed. Many producers now offer a nutrient analysis or you can have this done yourself.

Protein, fibre and energy analysis is relatively cheap, but vitamin and mineral analysis is more expensive. If in doubt, use a broad spectrum or forage balancing supplement alongside your forage.

The obvious difference is haylage is wrapped in plastic and hay is not. Grass for haylage is usually cut later than for silage, but several weeks sooner than for hay. Therefore, grass used for haylage tends to be younger and so is more digestible to horses and they tend to do better on it, so this must be taken into consideration when feeding it. They usually find it more palatable and will consume more than hay if fed ad-lib.

Mown grass for haylage is tedded and raked in a similar way to hay, but is baled and then wrapped a day or two earlier. Good hay will have been dried relatively quickly, ideally to about 14 per cent moisture. Hay which has been rained

on will have had some of the nutrients washed out, but more importantly may have been baled with too high a moisture content, leading to the growth of mould and fungi.

When you cut the strings on a good bale of hay it should ‘spring’ apart, be a greenish colour and smell sweet. If dried for longer it may be more yellow in colour and have less nutritional value, which may be more suitable for good doers and ponies. Hay which is dark in colour and has an ‘off’ smell should be discarded.

All hay contains some dust and mould spores and its low moisture content means these become airborne and are a health risk to horses, particularly if stabled, and can cause respiratory problems.

As haylage is dried for a shorter period than hay it contains more moisture, often between 40 and 50 per cent. Sealing it in plastic excludes the air and the fermentation process then preserves it. Well made haylage contains very few, if any, mould spores, and because of its higher moisture content any which are present do not become airborne and, therefore, do not cause problems.

Although haylage is often more expensive than hay it can be better value as concentrate feed can often be reduced because haylage is more nutritious.

The quality of the haylage will be reduced if the wrapping has been punctured at any time allowing air in and mould to develop. Bales should be tightly wrapped with at least six layers of plastic.

Hay will remain in good condition for a long period of time if stored correctly, but haylage will start to deteriorate once opened and should be used within a few days, meaning it is not always practical for one or two horse owners.

How much to feed

To maintain your horse’s appropriate fibre intake you will need to feed a larger weight of haylage because it contains more moisture. For example, a typical 500g 16hh riding horse requires a minimum daily roughage intake of about 1 per cent of its bodyweight ie, 5kg of hay or, due to its higher moisture content, 7-8.5kg of haylage. Although you need more haylage by weight, you will need less by volume, as again, due to its higher moisture content, haylage is denser than hay. If you have only just started feeding haylage, it may be a good idea to weigh it out initially until you get used to judging the correct amount.

Feeding haylage

If changing from hay to haylage do so gradually to allow your horse’s digestive system time to adapt
Always buy from a reliable source and check all bales for damage
Once opened use a bale as quickly as possible, as exposing it to air means there is potential for mould to develop. Do not feed mouldy haylage to horses
Sometimes on opening a bale you will see tiny white/cream round ‘colonies’ on the haylage. They have a creamy consistency and are not powdery or fluffy. These are yeasts, not moulds and will not harm horses as they do not produce spores
Silage is baled and wrapped sooner after mowing than haylage, when the moisture content is higher. It has a strong smell and is not palatable to horses. If fed it can result in digestive upsets and scouring. Some farmers still refer to all wrapped forage as silage, so the only true way to see what they are offering is to have a look at it
Do not feed any haylage which has been contaminated by soil as this can lead to the risk of toxins causing listeriosis and botulism
As long as the sealed wrapping remains intact and has not been punctured haylage will remain well preserved and nutritious for a long period of time - it does not need to be used up in the year it was made
Ideally, horses should be fed ad-lib forage on the ground to replicate their natural environment, but if it has to be restricted, break it up into as many small feeds as possible. Using a hay net with small holes will slow down eating and make forage last longer
Haylage facts

Dust free - healthier than hay
Can be stored outside
Has a higher nutritional value, but not suitable for all horses/ponies
Can be more cost effective as it can reduce concentrated feed use.
Can be difficult to move around
Is more palatable than hay
Must be used quickly once opened - not practical for everyone
Is a more natural feed than hay and more digestible
Autumn watch

Spring and summer are not the only times when laminitis can strike. Autumn is notorious for the onset of the problem, even in horses and ponies with no previous history, particularly if there is a late flush of grass - so take care.

Don’t turn out in frosty conditions as changes in the grass caused by the cold can induce laminitis
Monitor your horse’s weight - learn to condition score or use a weigh tape
Increase your horse’s workload. This will not only keep the weight off, but reduce the risk of developing insulin resistance which can lead to laminitis
Check your horse’s diet and analyse forage - it is the only way to tell how many calories it is providing. Most feed companies provide this service
Pasture management - restrict grazing by grazing paddocks with sheep or other horses or by strip grazing. Use a menage for turn out.


Are you interested in horses and looking for more information and live in or around the Crieff, Perthshire area, make sure that you check out Crieff Hydro Hotel's very own Riding Centre, set within 900 acres of beautiful Perthshire countryside at the foot of the Knock of Crieff, the Crieff Hydro Riding Centre boasts a unique setting for horsey lovers. Check out the official Hydro Riding Website for more information- http://hydroriding.com/

Winter Feed Changes in Horses

Horses feeding in Winter Christmas time is always fun for horses. Winter weather means spending more time in the stall and as a result - less riding. As a result, it would make sense that a horse would need fewer calories over the winter. However, during prolonged periods of cold weather, a horse burns more calories to generate body heat and maintain its normal core temperature. In the past, some horse owners used to add corn to horse feed over winter to help them generate more body heat and reduce the stress and harsh effects of cold weather. Alternatively you can substitute two pounds of hay for each reduced pound of grain fed daily. When less than half a percent of the horse’s body weight is fed daily in grain, consider supplementing with a speciality feed. This ensures that the horse is still receiving the right amounts of vitamins and minerals at the reduced feeding rate.  Making sure that horses have good access to unlimited warm water can help encourage horses to drink more and prevent impaction colic. When a horse drinks cold water, they use extra energy to replace the heat lost and instinctively they tend to drink less. Making sure your horse has an adequate water intake ensures that the fibre in the digestive system stays hydrated, which allows it to be broken down by intestinal bacteria. This makes it much less likely to cause blockages. Mixing salt, mineral supplements, and electrolytes into a horse’s feed can also simulate a horse to drink more water. Regular exercise over the winter period can also aid the movement of the gut and reduce the risk of colic. It is also sensible to keep a watchful eye over the weight of your horse. An unclipped horse’s winter coat can make it difficult to check the horse’s body condition, the owner should use a weight tape or scale monthly to check the horse’s weight. This allows the owner to adjust the feeding program as needed and to keep the horse in peak physical condition and ready for warmer weather.