Hot Shoeing vs Cold Shoeing

Hot Shoeing - Photo by Hans Splinter

Take it from us here at TicTac - everyone loves a nice new pair of shoes, even Horses!! No, especially horses!

But seriously, when it comes to protecting you horse's hooves, there are two main methods - Hot Shoeing and Cold Shoeing - and there are several arguments to support each method, but as with anything relating to horse care, there are also a number of factors to consider. As we all no, all horses (and owners) are different, so it's up to you to decide what works best for you and your four-legged friends. After all, it isn't you that's going to be trying them on!

However, you should always keep an open dialogue with an experienced farrier in order to get reliable advice on how to proceed. To give you a heads up though, here's a quick run-down on the basics of each method.

Hot Shoeing - is the application of hot shoes to the horses' hooves. The shoes are heated, moulded and if required after sizing them up, the blacksmith will place them back on the anvil in order to make any necessary changes before cooling them and nailing them into place. 


The advantages of hot-shoeing include: 

• The ability to draw and custom-fit clips for added strength.
• Hot metal shapes easier and more accurately than cold-shoeing.
• Accuracy - the hot impression on the hoof shows exactly where the nail holes lie, reducing the chance of pinching.
• The highs and lows of a dressed hoof will show and be corrected. 

The process can produce clouds of smoke/steam, which can be off-putting for some. And also, many voice their concerns over the loss of moisture in the horse's hooves by using this method. However, if applied correctly by a reliable farrier, the Hot Shoeing process is perfectly safe and effective.

Cold shoeing - is to simply take a cold shoe and shape it to the horse's hoof as accurately as the metal will allow before nailing it into position. Cold Shoeing tends be more beneficial for the blacksmith as opposed to the horse, in terms of its effectiveness and accuracy but it is generally less expensive, faster and more practical.

Other benefits of Cold Shoeing Include: 

• The fact that generally it's a much faster system
• Cost-wise, it's less expensive for the blacksmith and owner alike.
• This is a practical method for someone who wants to do their own horses. The investment in equipment is much less as is the skill required.
• If the blacksmith is not able to get close enough to the barn with his forge because of weather, etc., then cold shoeing is a suitable replacement.

To find out more about horse riding, and if you live near Crieff Hydro make sure you check out Crieff Hydro Hotel's Riding Centre in Perthshire. 

To rug or not to rug - advice on winter horse rugs

For a great selection of rugs,
check out the Tic Tac Equestrian store

Horse rugs form an essential part of proper modern horse care, and a lot of thought needs to go into deciding when and on what occasions to use different types of rugs. However, this doesn't need to be confusing and does not take long to get into a useful routine. 

To help you with this area of horse care, we've compiled a series of helpful tips, highlighting notable differences between all common rug types and when or when not to use them: 

Turnout Rugs

A horse turnout rug is generally used throughout all seasons (with the exception of the middle of summer) to keep the horse warm and dry out in the pasture. Of course, horses are naturally built to withstand winter weather by growing thick coats and as a result, they have the ability to stay warm in the winter without the use of turnout rug, if they aren't clipped. However, many horse owners tend to use rugs anyway.

Winter Turnout rugs

Throughout the winter, you will likley need a turnout rug that is much thicker; one which is both windproof and waterproof to keep your horse warm in all conditions. For a full selection of winter rugs, feel free to visit the Tic Tac store.

Spring/Summer rugs

On milder days, your choice of horse rug will need to be less thick, as there is less need for maintaining a horse's body heat. Many rugs that fall into this category are generally just meant to keep off summer showers and breezes although some of these, which have extra layers underneath, can still be used in the winter.

Stable blankets are also an essential piece of horse equipment to ensure comfort, care and protection throughout the winter months and as the name suggests, they are designed primarily to be used in the stable to keep the horse warm. Stable horse rugs are generally not waterproof, however, these can be used underneath a turnout rug to increase warmth.

As for other types of horse rugs, fly sheets help to keep off flies in the summer which can cause irritation or even lead to potentially serious diseases in horses. Whereas Show Rugs are used to protect a horse’s coat before a horse show to ensure that you don’t have to do any extra grooming.

Mud Rash in Horses and how to Combat it

Mud Rash can affect horse's legs and hooves

It’s almost Christmas, which means it's that time of year again when mud rash begins to become a problem.  So, how can we prevent it? If a horse gets it, how can we cure it? And why are some horses more prone to it than others? 

In a bid to help address some of these questions, we've pulled together some information on Mud Rash in horses and what to do to help keep your horse healthy, safe and comfortable.

What is Mud Rash?

Mud Rash is caused by a bacterium named Dermatophilus congolensis, which exists in the environment as spores, and is activated by wet weather - the cornerstone of any British winter.

As a result, horse’s legs are constantly exposed to the wet, making the outer layers of the skin much softer and at risk of external trauma. The skin is more exposed to infection so the bacteria can live and increase in it.

How can you tell your horse has mud rash?

Mud rash is most likely to be found on the backs of horses pasterns and fetlocks. The hair becomes matted and develops dry crusts, which may progress moist weeping lesions. If you scrape away the crust, there is often a moist pink surface which is sore with some pus underneath. In its worst phase the legs will swell and the horse can become lame.

Bathing the affected area with Hibiscrub and layering it with Sudocrem should help to protect the skin from the wet bedding.

In extreme cases, always call your local vet - better that than the legs becoming swollen and your horse lame. Usually, if bad enough, the horse is prescribed antibiotics to clear the infection up.

How can mud rash be prevented?

If you put your horse out when the ground is wet and muddy, always put udder cream or sudocrem on the heels and fetlock areas beforehand. Really smear the stuff on, so that is a good covering of protection. Usually, the thicker and greasier creams help form a better barrier against infection.

You can use Sudocrem or Vaseline but these tend to leave the legs feeling greasy for days afterwards.

The aim is to avoid the horse having too much contact with the mud, which is difficult at this time of year. If you can, don’t turn out every day but every other day, or not at all. I know of some stables that keep the horses in all through the Winter, both to allow the fields to recover and prevent the horses coming down with mud rash.

You can also use turn out boots and mud chaps to keep the lower leg clean and dry. You need to ensure that they fit properly and do not rub the skin. The boots and chaps must be kept clean inside or you defeat the object by mud rubbing in to the skin when they are worn. Some horses may sweat wearing the chaps creating more problems rather than preventing others.

Rubber Matting

Rubber stable matting for horses

In a previous post, we talked about different types of bedding for horses during the winter season. 

One particularly popular type of material being used in stables worldwide is Rubber Matting.

In terms of conventional types of horse bedding, Rubber matting is a fairly new development providing a warmer, softer and more comfortable stable floor for your horse than concrete, brick, dirt, or wood flooring. 

Rubber matting also greatly reduces the amount of bedding required. A downside is horses don't like to lie down on the bare mats. They prefer the comfort of a bedded area. So even though mats cut down on the amount of bedding needed, be kind to your horse and provide him with enough soft bedding to make him feel comfortable enough to lie down!

For more information on equestrian supplies and bedding, please visit us at Tic Tac Equestrian